The taxi dropped me off at Dominus Flevit. It was a hot day at the end of May 2006; the morning sun was already baking the Mount of Olives. The taxi driver was a bit rude; he wanted to take me to Bethany; I did not want to go. He persisted, so I finally I just ignored him and I did not like that.
Exiting the taxi I went into the church. A cat was running around, skittering here and there, seeming to play with an imaginary cat toy; it was not a cute cat, it was too lean and hungry.
A Franciscan came along – he seemed very agitated and and started to yell at the cat; my prayer was interrupted by his angry words. I don’t even know what language it was. I started to ask him a question and he scowled, said something and left.
I sighed deeply, once again reminded that I could not “create” religious experience just because I was in a particular place or because I wanted to. You’d think I would know that already. I do know it, but I am persistent in my pursuits, so I guess I keep hoping.
After taking a photo through the window behind the altar, I left and made my way down the hill, passing the gold domes of the Church of Mary Magdalene. This was my second trip down the road; I was there in 2004 too. This church is intriguing, but only open at certain times; once again my timing was off.
In front of the Magdalene church complex gate, there was a man with a white mule. He smiled at me, I smiled at him. He said, “Peek-CHOOR?” Yes, I could take his picture. He posed and after I snapped, he put out his hand and offered me a toothless smile. *sigh* Some shekels and I parted company and he smiled again. I kept going down the hill.
My next stop was The Garden of Gethsemane. The trees are ancient and gnarled, standing like sentinels. The quiet was penetrating, no one else was there. After some time in the garden, wondering about Jesus praying there so many years ago, I entered the Church of All Nations.
If there is something bizarre to me about Jerusalem, but maybe not, it is that finding a time and place to go to mass is a challenge. So I entered the church and in the dark silence of the entrance, I scanned a sign and it did appear that mass would start soon.
The church was cool, dry and dim. I sat down, no one was there. A group of tourists came in, I think that they were Polish. They were noisy, running around, touching things and having animated conversations.
What was it about creating religious experience that I did not understand? This was religious experience, just not one that I could control.
They left and soon thereafter a priest entered. He went to the altar and I thought that mass would begin. He looked about 35 and was wearing a cassock; he went to the altar table, then to the chair, where he sat and prayed. Eventually he left and once more, I realized that another plan of mine was foiled. No mass. I felt angry.
Some other people came in and out, groups of 4 and 5, from different countries. There were some very loud Asian people who went up on the altar and took photos of each other. My inner hanging judge was on high alert.
Creating religious experience again, not accepting what was. A theme.
Then they sat down and became very still. One of them, a woman, went over to the rock where Jesus is thought to have prayed and sweated blood, and she lay down up on it. I pretended to pray with my eyes closed, but I was actually watching her. She prayed and stayed there a long time and I thought about how I would never do that. I must admit that I thought this with an air of superiority. That’s how Ms. Planned Religious Experience rolls. How annoying I am – to myself.
They left and I remained, a tightly wound ball of control issues, anger and judgment. Nothing worked. Maybe I should have gone to Bethany after all.
My eyes closed and I went into my favorite form of contemplative prayer – sleep.
About 15 minutes later I awoke with a start and I knew what I had to do. I got up and walked up to the altar and turned around; the church was empty. Next thing I know, I am on my knees next to the rock. A moment later, I am draped across the rock and I begin to weep.
Yes, I myself am laying on the rock and I am now sobbing uncontrollably. In my heart and through my tears, I hear myself making a promise and a big one at that. As I literally press my entire body, shaking through the tears as it is, against the rock, I hear myself saying that I am giving my whole life to God.
I don’t really want to be saying this at some level, but I am saying it nonetheless. And I know I do not want to say it because it is true and I can’t bear it. It is true and I can’t bear and I do not want to be saying it, yet at the same time I begin to feel a weight lift and I feel some tremendous relief.
Then I realize that I am in a public place, flat upon a rock, crying and sobbing, on an altar for God’s sake. I get very still, just staying where I am. It reminds me of when I was little and would not want to be seen. Back then it seemed that if I got really quiet and really small no one would see me.
Of course, I was not little or small so I simply got up at one point and surveyed an empty church.
I returned to the chair I had been sitting in before and collected myself. A barrier had been broken; I had made it clear to God that I was in. Buyer’s remorse danced around the edges of my consciousness. I mean, I was already more religiously inclined than most. This was different however, very different.
It was also too late to turn back.